The not-quite-yet salubrious setting of Morning Lane in Hackney is home to Legs, a 25 seat modern British restaurant. With buses roaring past amongst the fledgling ‘Carnaby Street of East London’ shops that make up Hackney Walk, it’s a confusing location for a restaurant. I’ve read several rave reviews of the dinner service at this charming little restaurant since it opened exactly a year ago – but we decided to mix things up and try out the brunch.
The restaurant is bright and light, with a small open kitchen and a counter loaded with fat, enticing cinnamon buns. The menu is fitting with the premises, small and perfectly formed – we could have ordered everything from the list of brunch dishes, which provided exciting twists on the traditional – a pea and parmesan omelette passed us by in favour of Sunday morning favourite of scrambled eggs and smoked salmon. How special can scrambled eggs and smoked salmon possibly be, asked my dining companion. The answer at Legs is VERY, as the most glorious bright orange scrambled eggs arrived – with thick melt-in-your-mouth slabs of Norwegian cured salmon served with dill and watercress.
We ordered charred sweet corn rolled in nori flakes and so much butter we could smell it, alongside a delicious plate of spinach, anchovy, chilli and breadcrumbs which had just the right balance of salty crunch. Our other egg dish selection was two perfect poachers on anchovy buttered toast with char grilled asparagus, dusted with a generous snowfall of parmesan which went perfectly with what’s touted to be 2017’s summer drink – farewell Aperol spritz, hello to the Vergano – a deliciously bitter/sweet brewed-in-the-basement vermouth spritzer with lemon.
Sitting in the sunny window seats, listening to Bonnie Tyler and watching the foot traffic of Hackney Walk shoppers wander past, we ordered one more Vergano for the road and agreed we’ll definitely be back for dinner.